What Is Melasma? Causes, Triggers, and How to Treat It
Melasma is a common skin condition that causes flat, brown or gray-brown patches to appear on the face. These occur most often on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, nose bridge, and chin. It’s sometimes called the “mask of pregnancy” because it frequently appears during hormonal changes, but melasma affects women of all ages and can persist long after pregnancy ends.
The patches are pigment-related, caused by overactive melanocytes (the cells responsible for skin color) producing too much melanin in concentrated areas. Melasma isn’t typically raised or itchy.
Why Do I Have Melasma?
There isn’t one single cause of melasma. Melasma is driven by a combination of factors that trigger melanocytes to overproduce pigment:
Hormones are the most significant driver. Estrogen and progesterone stimulate melanin production, which is why melasma is so common during pregnancy, while using hormonal birth control, or during perimenopause. If your melasma appeared or worsened during a hormonal shift, this is likely a contributing factor.
Sun exposure is the most common trigger — and the reason melasma is so stubborn. UV radiation directly stimulates melanocytes. Even small amounts of unprotected sun exposure can darken existing patches and create new ones. This is also why melasma tends to look worse in summer and fade slightly in winter, only to return.
Heat can be an independent trigger, separate from UV. Infrared radiation from sun, saunas, and even hot environments can worsen melasma in some people.
Genetics play a role too. If melasma runs in your family, you’re more likely to develop it.
Skin tone matters. Melasma is more common in people with medium to darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick types III–VI) because their melanocytes are naturally more active.
Stress and inflammation can exacerbate melasma, though the mechanism is less well understood than hormones or UV exposure.
Why Won’t My Melasma Go Away on Its Own?
Because the triggers, especially sun exposure, are constant and cumulative. Melasma doesn’t behave like a bruise or a temporary breakout. The melanocytes that produced excess pigment remain sensitized. Without active treatment and consistent sun protection, the patches either stay the same or gradually deepen.
Over-the-counter brightening creams can help maintain results but rarely eliminate established melasma on their own. Melasma that has been present for years or has penetrated into the deeper layers of skin (dermal melasma) is particularly resistant to topical-only approaches.
This is why professional treatment matters.
How Is Melasma Treated?
Melasma treatment works by interrupting the melanin production cycle, accelerating the shedding of pigmented skin cells, or both. The most effective approaches combine in-office treatments with a disciplined at-home routine, because melasma will take advantage of any gaps.
At Synergy Face + Body, we use the Melanage Lightening System, which is a specialized peel designed specifically for melasma and stubborn hyperpigmentation.
We offer two options:
The Melanage Ultra Peel — a full-face treatment ideal for widespread melasma across the cheeks, forehead, and upper lip.
The Melanage Mini Peel — a targeted option that can also be used on the neck and chest, making it a good fit for melasma that extends beyond the face.
Both peels contain arbutin and retinol as their active ingredients. Arbutin is a naturally derived skin brightener that inhibits tyrosinase, which is the enzyme that triggers melanin production. Retinol accelerates cell turnover, helping to shed the pigmented surface layers faster and reveal clearer skin beneath. Together, they address melasma both at the surface and at the source.
Here’s what the process looks like:
During your in-office visit, your provider applies the peel solution to your skin. The peel remains on for five to ten hours depending on your skin type and sensitivity — you’ll remove it at home following the instructions you’re given. There’s no burning sensation during the wear time.
After the treatment, you’ll follow a strict at-home skincare routine for several weeks. This phase is as important as the in-office treatment itself. The home-care kit Synergy provides is designed to support healing, prevent re-pigmentation, and protect the results you’ve invested in.
Most patients begin to see peeling on days two or three. Redness typically resolves within one to two weeks. The number of treatments needed varies — some patients see significant improvement after one session, while those with deeper or long-standing melasma typically benefit from a series.
Who Is a Good Candidate for a Melasma Peel?
The Melanage system is formulated to work across all skin tones, including darker complexions that require more careful approach with chemical exfoliation. If you have:
- Brown or gray-brown patches on your face, neck, or chest that haven’t responded to topical products
- Melasma that darkens seasonally or after sun exposure
- Hyperpigmentation from hormonal changes, pregnancy, or birth control
- Uneven skin tone alongside other concerns like fine lines or texture
…a consultation at Synergy is worth your time. A VISIA skin analysis can show you exactly what’s happening beneath the surface — including pigmentation patterns that aren’t visible to the naked eye — so your provider can recommend the right approach for your skin specifically.
What About Sun Protection?
Non-negotiable. No melasma treatment — professional or otherwise — will hold without consistent, broad-spectrum SPF applied every morning (and reapplied if you’re outdoors). SPF 30 minimum; SPF 50 is better. This isn’t optional post-peel advice; it’s the difference between lasting results and retreating melasma.
Ready to Address Your Melasma?
If you’ve been watching those patches and waiting for them to fade on their own, they probably won’t — not without help. The Melanage Peel at Synergy Face + Body is one of the most targeted options available for treating melasma in Raleigh, and it’s designed to work for real skin, not just fair complexions in controlled settings.
Schedule your Melasma Peel consultation at Synergy Face + Body.